The Costa Brava's Hidden Gem: A Chic Escape Off the Beaten Path
The Costa Brava, a stretch of coastline in Spain, has long been overshadowed by its more famous counterparts. But there's a hidden gem nestled in this region that's attracting a new wave of travelers. The Baix Emporda, just a stone's throw from Girona, has quietly maintained its charm while other areas succumbed to mass tourism.
What makes this area particularly fascinating is its ability to preserve its authenticity. Many establishments here have been around since the 1950s, catering to a loyal clientele with a taste for tradition. It's a place where starched white tablecloths and repeat guests are the norm, offering a stark contrast to the flashy resorts that dominate other Costas.
A Renaissance in the Pandemic Era
The pandemic, ironically, has breathed new life into this region. Younger Barcelona residents and remote workers have rediscovered its allure, seeking a change of scenery and a more tranquil lifestyle. Even celebrities like Beyoncé and Barack Obama have been drawn to its shores. This influx of visitors has sparked a renaissance of sorts, with new restaurants, shops, and hotels catering to this modern crowd while respecting the area's old-world charm.
Exploring the Coastline and Beyond
One of the region's highlights is the Camí de Ronda, a walking trail that winds along the cliffs, offering breathtaking views of the pine-scented coastline. It's a path that takes you back in time, once used by 19th-century police to keep an eye on smugglers. The trail caters to various fitness levels, with gentle strolls between hidden coves and more challenging routes for the adventurous.
For those who prefer the sea, boat trips are a must. Sailing between the expansive sands of Platja del Ráco and the headland beyond Calella reveals hidden caves and secluded coves. Cala Pedrosa, a castaway's dream, boasts a seasonal chiringuito serving the freshest catch of the day.
Inland, the town of Begur stands out with its colorful houses, a legacy of 19th-century merchants returning from Cuba. Its lively plazas and ruined castle offer a glimpse into its rich history and provide the perfect setting for evening drinks.
Culinary Delights and Cultural Gems
The region is a foodie's paradise, with a plethora of dining options. Toc al Mar, perched above the beach at Aigua Blava, offers fresh seafood and crisp white wine as the sun sets. Hostal Sa Rascassa, with its gravelly garden, serves excellent dishes like goat's cheese salad and squid ink spaghetti. And for romance, Cap Sa Sal's terraces cascading towards the Mediterranean provide a magical dining experience.
Llafranc, once frequented by Liz Taylor, maintains its hip reputation with restaurants like Far Nomo, offering sushi in jasmine-scented gardens, and Isabella's, an Italian gem with mid-century glamour. Begur's Hotel Aiguaclara boasts the cool Clara restaurant, known for its excellent cocktails.
Beyond dining, the medieval village of Pals offers a charming shopping experience with immaculate lanes filled with jewelers, clothing boutiques, and souvenir shops. La Bisbal, a hub for pottery, now produces trendy crockery, with Limón Studio leading the way in limited-edition ceramics.
Accommodation for Every Taste
When it comes to accommodation, the Costa Brava caters to all preferences. Finca Victoria, once a family party pad, has been transformed into an adults-only sanctuary near Sa Riera beach. Hotel Aigua Blava, nestled among the coves of Fornells, offers family-friendly charm with stunning views, hearty breakfasts, and an old-fashioned vibe.
Begur, surprisingly, boasts a vibrant boutique hotel scene. Alta House, with its chic design and banana-palm shaded pool, is a standout. La Bionda, with its colorful tiles and vibrant accents, offers a more playful atmosphere. For wellness seekers, Camiral Health & Wellness, a short distance from the coast, provides a haven with its extensive wellness center and golf course, set to host the Ryder Cup in 2031.
Getting There
Accessing this hidden paradise is straightforward. Girona airport, served by Tui, is the closest, but fares can be steep in summer. Barcelona, with its multitude of operators, offers more affordable options. From there, a hire car is the perfect way to explore this captivating region at your own pace.
Personally, I find the Costa Brava's understated elegance incredibly appealing. It's a destination that rewards those who seek authenticity and are willing to venture off the beaten path. This region is a testament to the enduring charm of traditional coastal towns, offering a unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty.
